bq staples: in detail

it’s been way too long since i gave any informative or detailed posts on here, and for that i apologize. i thought i’d give some tips and tricks for each of our staples.

aloe vera gel. i find aloe vera gel to be a lot more helpful as a styling product than anything else, but a lot of people enjoy using it as a moisturizer, when mixed with other ingredients. i use it when twisting my hair, so as to get a more well-defined twist out. aloe is also great when slicking your hair back. wet a boar bristle brush and apply some aloe with a little bit of castor oil. brush, and style. your hair will be smooth, glossy, and healthy looking!
**OT: aloe vera gel also makes a GREAT daily moisturizer, especially if your skin is oily and acne prone.

dr. bronner’s castile soap. this all-natural, vegan, organic liquid soap is truly multipurpose. you can use it to clean your body, bathroom, dishes, and hair. as a shampoo, i highly recommend that you dilute it. (actually, it should be diluted for almost any use.) i use 1 part soap, 3 parts water. dr. bronner’s clarifies my hair really well, and leaves it healthy and refreshed. at the same time, it isn’t drying. it’s hard to explain, because it does definitely clean out my hair, but i’ve never had that “stripped” feeling after using dr. bronner’s.
best scents? i definitely love the peppermint (tingly!) and almond. you can also get lavendar, fragrance free, and others!

vegetable glycerin. this is definitely one of the best moisturizing ingredients out there. i prefer to squeeze a dime or nickel-sized amount on my palm, and some water, rub my hands together, and distribute throughout my hair. a little definitely goes a long way. veggie glycerin is also great when added to a light conditioner (like suave or trader joe’s essential conditioner). it’s a popular ingredient in spritzes as well; try half a bottle of water, 3-5 generous squeezes of vegetable glycerin, 4 drops of rosemary oil, and a little bit of olive oil.
oh! and i like adding vegetable glycerin to my henna mixtures as well.

olive oil. i think olive oil is a little trickier, because a lot of people don’t necessarily have good experiences with using it straight out of the bottle. try using olive oil as a hot oil treatment: microwave a small cup of olive oil until very warm (but not too hot!); apply generously throughout dry hair, including ends and scalp; cover hair with saran wrap or plastic bag; leave in for 20-30 minutes; shampoo out. you’ll notice that your hair is much softer.
you can also try applying a quarter sized amount of olive oil after you’ve washed your hair (as a leave in treatment). this is especially beneficial if you’ve clarified and need something to seal in moisture.
**OT: i’ve replaced regular lotion with extra virgin olive oil. i apply it on my wet skin immediately after i’ve showered, and pat dry with a towel. my skin is left soft, healthy, and vibrant! a little goes a long way.

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as for my own staples, i always recommend trader joe’s nourish spa conditioner to people looking for a moisturizing and detangling conditioner. it’s great for both co-washing and pooing. i use auromere’s tulsi-neem soap almost any time i shampoo, because it does such a great job controlling dandruff. it’s also a moisturizing soap, so it doesn’t dry out my hair at all. i recommend massaging the soap on your scalp and applying another shampoo (like dr. bronners or elucence) throughout your hair, since auromere tulsi-neem doesn’t necessarily cleanse the hair thoroughly.
henna, of course, has always been my love, and i definitely recommend it to anybody looking for a natural hair dye and/or great hair conditioning experience. qhemet biologics heavy cream is AMAZING. that’s all i have to say.

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do any of you have tips and tricks for the products listed above (or your own favorite staples) that i haven’t mentioned? leave a comment! teach us something.

henna faq

if you haven’t used henna before and are curious about it, chances are you have a lot of questions about techniques, color choices, and safety. i have grown up using henna, and i notice a lot of misconceptions about it in various henna and hair care forums. a lot of people have the same questions but unfortunately don’t always have access to the most reliable information about henna. so i’ve compiled a set of questions that i think are most common among henna newbies. you’ll find my own answers, along with a few references to my photo-instructional henna guide, and other sites. feel free to keep asking questions here, on black queen, fotki, or by email!

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what is henna?
henna is a natural plant that acts as a great hair dye, conditioner, and temporary skin tattoo.

what color will henna dye my hair?
henna will dye the hair an orange-ish red tone, but on black hair it will only lighten the color a little bit. the color will be most visible in the sun, where it will appear brownish-orange, but overall, henna will make black hair a warmer deep brown color. (see it in action here and here.)

is henna safe?
absolutely. pure henna is harmless, as long as you aren’t allergic to the plant, which is extremely rare. however, it’s very important to do a strand test on a small piece of your hair (or a spot test on skin) in order to make sure that the product you’re using is safe. it is also very important to make sure you are buying 100% pure henna, with no added anything. some companies add other natural herbs and ingredients to change the color result, and while this is probably safe, you’re always best off with pure henna. that way, you can add whatever you choose to your mix. just be sure to check the ingredients list and make sure that the henna you’re using is pure.

where can i buy henna?
henna can be found in a lot of health food stores, but the vast majority of those products are unpure. they may or may not be safe, and most likely won’t give the best result. mehandi.com is probably the most popular site for purchasing henna. you can also check out everydayhenna.com and fromnaturewithlove.com, among other places.

{eta: i’ve just been informed that everydayhenna.com is not reliable, due the lack of any management after the site’s owner sadly passed away. please know that your order will not be fulfilled if you order from this site. thanks to jen for the vital information. she supplies henna on her henna muse site. check out other popular suppliers here and here.}

international shops (especially middle eastern and indian) are likely to have henna, but you must also be careful and make sure that the product is pure. perhaps ask the shopkeepers if they use henna, and what product they recommend. a lot of times, international brands can be the best choice, because they are simple and don’t try to fool you through imitation. however, these brands are also difficult to find and sell in america, so you may or may not find them in an international shop.
just definitely avoid health food stores, ebay, and anything labeled “black henna”.

i found a henna brand in a variety of colors. which color should i go for?
henna does not come in a variety of colors. any brand that offers henna in auburn, chestnut, blonde, brown, etc is a fraud. some brands (like lush) add natural ingredients to change the color. however, many brands add chemicals and ppd dyes that can be extremely harmful. take necessary precautions, read ingredients labels, and make sure you are comfortable with the product. like i’ve said before, opt for 100% pure and natural henna.

does the region where the henna is grown make a difference?
certain areas where henna is grown have better “tanin levels,” because of their dryer climate. these regions therefore grow henna more than areas with moist climates, and because of this, the most popular henna tends to be grown in the middle east, north/east africa, and south asia. (more information on the henna page website.)

is henna permanent?
no. henna’s color will last a very long time on the hair, but eventually, the color fades.

is henna harmful to my skin?
not at all. henna is used as a temporary skin tattoo. it is therefore important to make sure you protect your hands, face, arms, and neck when dying your hair with henna. more info here.

my friend uses “body quality art” henna for tattoos. can i use this product on my hair as well?
yes. the term “body quality art” ensures that the product is pure and sifted enough to tattoo the skin effectively and safely. this will work well for the hair, too.

what should i add to my henna powder?
the simplest henna mix can be henna powder and water, but to get the best color, an acidic liquid is necessary. lemon juice or apple cider vinegar are the best choices. my favorite mixture is henna powder, ACV, instant coffee powder, olive oil and honey. apple cider vinegar makes the color less brassy, while coffee powder makes the color more brownish. olive oil and honey moisturize the hair. a humectant, like honey, corn syrup, or glycerin, is especially important for making the mixture stick better.
all in all, your mixture should be a smooth paste. more information here.

i read somewhere that you should add boiled water to henna. is this true?
no. boiled water will actually weaken the color. use lukewarm water.

how long should i leave in my henna?
as long as you want. try to keep it in for at least 1-2 hours. also, if you plan on using it for a shorter amount of time, let the henna sit (covered with plastic wrap) for a while, so that the dye releases more.

what is the best way to wash out henna?
that depends on how important the color result is to you. since henna isn’t very noticeable on dark hair, i never shampoo my henna out. that makes it very difficult to get all of the henna out, and for the most part my hair isn’t completely clean after hennaing. a lot of people prefer to shampoo it out, but just know that shampoo/soap can weaken the color. i choose to rinse thoroughly, shake everything out in the shower, leave air-dried for a few days, and then wash with shampoo.

will henna clog my shower?
henna has never clogged my shower, or anyone else’s that i’ve known of, so i’m almost positive it won’t clog yours.

i’ve washed out my henna, and my hair feels dryer than normal. i thought that this was supposed to condition my hair?
henna does condition the hair, but it definitely does not moisturize the hair. the difference is, a moisturizing conditioner leaves hair soft, but henna leaves hair thick, dense, and healthy-looking. initially, however, it will be difficult to notice this, because henna also leaves the hair dry. the acidic liquid that you added to your mixture will probably add to the problem.
there’s a very easy solution to this. once your henna is washed out, moisturize with a heavy-duty moisturizer, like castor oil. after your hair has dried, deep condition with a hot oil treatment, and wash the oil with a gentle shampoo afterwards. (i prefer to do this a couple days after the henna has been washed out.)
also, try adding moisturizing ingredients to your henna mix, like olive oil or honey. if that doesn’t make too much of a difference, trust me, the dry feeling is temporary.

is there a way to make henna more noticeable on my black hair?
try leaving it in for longer, and make sure you have lemon juice or apple cider vinegar added to the mixture. also, if you use henna regularly (say, every few months or so), you’ll notice an overall difference in your hair’s health and color. all in all, however, henna will never drastically change black hair’s color.

be sure to check out my interactive henna tutorial on fotki. you’ll find a lot of helpful information about application techniques and such.