treat your hair like the royalty it is.

Posts Tagged ‘hair’

becoming a black queen, thus far.

In shiraz on 03.24.09 at 3:36 am

i’ve been meaning to do this for a while. after being introduced to and amazed by afrobella’s blog, especially after reading her very first blog entry, i was inspired to write a similar story of my upbringing. brace yourself, it’s pretty long! click here for the full view.

i was born in khartoum, sudan, but my family moved to the states when i was only two months old. i lived in provo, utah for the majority of my childhood, so i grew influenced by my conservative, middle class surroundings. it wasn’t until my family moved to ohio that i got i glimpse of real diversity, and with this came racial and cultural tensions. i dealt with more teasing on the playground than ever before, and i noticed that most of my black and white friends ate at separate tables during lunch. i can’t remember many black classmates who had as many white friends as i did, except for one who was called an “oreo” during an altercation. but generally, the segregation wasn’t too extreme and tensions only grew at specific occasions. i got along with different types of people and enjoyed being surrounded by diverse perspectives.

however, there was something striking about the difference between my black classmates and i. the vast majority of the black girls had straightened hair, and it usually reached their jawline, or sometimes their shoulders. i always adored straight hair and would constantly ask my mom why she didn’t style my hair in that way. my mother would occasionally straighten my hair with a blow dryer and curl it slightly with a curling iron, but she never liked to do this too frequently. she knew the damage this type of style caused, and like most sudanese mothers, she styled my hair in buns and braids. i grew up on products like brylcreem, dax, and a homemade concoction that my grandmother used to make out of various oils and fats. it smelled horrible, but to this day, it is the only thing that keeps my hair moisturized in sudan’s sweltering, dry heat.

as my older sister began styling her hair on her own in junior high and high school, i noticed that she would always be straightening her hair. my sister, in particular, had a strong effect on how i viewed myself; it’s common knowledge that sisters get compared to each other like none other. her hair is much looser than mine. i would always observe her after we both had washed our hair. while my corkscrew curls would shrink , poof, and tangle, my sister’s hair was seemingly magical. her larger curls would easily flow down her back. when in sudan over vacation, i can recall one of my cousins asking my sister why my hair wasn’t “nice” like hers. i asked myself this question long before my cousin did. and no matter what i did, the answer always remained: “shiraz doesn’t know how to do her hair.”

a lot of my cousins on my mother’s side also have finer hair. the ideal beauty in khartoum (and most of sudan) is a woman with long, flowing hair and fair skin. but no matter how hard i tried, no matter how religiously i followed my sister’s, mother’s, or cousins’ hair routines, my hair was never exactly like theirs. and because similar beauty standards are held amongst black women in america, i grew up disliking my hair. any chance my mom allowed me to, i would straighten it with excitement. for the next week or so my hair would look “nice!” however, like many sudanese women, my mother objected to the use of chemical perms and instead preferred my hair slicked back in a greasy bun. regardless of the difficulties she had getting a comb through my head, and despite the monsoon of tears i shed whenever she had to detangle my hair in the bathtub, my mom adamantly refused to process my hair.

this all changed when my mom got me a children’s relaxer for my 13th birthday. my aunt recommended this specific perm, because she used it with no problems. i couldn’t wait to perm my hair, and after i did, i felt like a new person. my hair was more manageable. my curls didn’t shrink after i washed them. i could wear my hair down with less fuss. the relaxer gave me the possibility of the long, flowing hair that i always dreamed of. i got a second perm in high school, and began thermally straightening my hair regularly as well. life was good.

i never got a third perm, but i continued straightening my hair with flat irons. as time passed, i found myself straightening my hair less often. i grew weary of spending 5 hours on my hair every weekend, and one hour each morning for touch ups. i did have “beauty days” on occasions, where i would straighten my hair and give myself a facial, manicure, and pedicure. whenever i straightened my hair, i noticed that i’d get more compliments. in fact, i’d get all compliments when it was straight, whereas no one really cared for my hair when it was natural.

it really hit me harder when a friend had a horrible fake pony on, and another friend and i asked her why she was wearing it. she responded, “i can’t wear my hair out right now, it’s nappy! i’ll look like shiraz!” she laughed, while i just stared at her. “i’m kidding, it would be worse,” she said.

why does it have to be worse? i thought. why is my hair bad and anything nappier worse?

i decided to flat iron my hair for my high school graduation. deep down, i didn’t want to, but i couldn’t think of another way to wear my cap and gown. as usual, i got a flood of compliments, but i realized something crucial. those compliments, as great as they sounded, actually insulted me. i never felt better about myself after hearing that i should wear my hair like “that” more often. i was proud of myself for not completely conforming to what society viewed as beautiful, but i was dissatisfied that i had still used the flat iron that was tucked away in my closet. i didn’t feel like myself. i wasn’t myself. i was unnatural.

it was at that moment that i knew. i knew i would never straighten my hair again. i knew that the beauty standards imposed on sudanese and african american women were unrealistic, insulting, and dehumanizing. it wasn’t a matter of women choosing to look a certain way. no one is happy with toxic chemicals being slathered on her scalp; no one is happy to see a cabinet full of “lightening” skin products. this was a matter of looking in the mirror and being conditioned to be unhappy with what one sees. and while most women deal with this in various aspects, regardless of skin color, the way women of african descent have systematically responded to their supposed “flaws” is by far the most dangerous and tragic.

so i got rid of the fear, and began wearing my hair out. i was in college, and i no longer cared if this would result in people laughing at me or telling me that i need a perm. i still remember the first day i legitimately had my hair completely out and natural– not in a bun or afro puff. i was so worried about what my friends would say. what were people in the street going to say? will they point and laugh? will they stare? but i sucked it up, because deep down they didn’t matter.

surprisingly, there hasn’t been a day when someone didn’t compliment me on my hair. the first day i wore my hair out, my friend told me it looked great. she told me to keep wearing my hair like that. i did, not because of her or the other compliments. i continued to wear my hair naturally, because it truly completed me. to this day, i’ve never looked back.

henna faq

In henna on 07.24.08 at 9:44 pm

if you haven’t used henna before and are curious about it, chances are you have a lot of questions about techniques, color choices, and safety. i have grown up using henna, and i notice a lot of misconceptions about it in various henna and hair care forums. a lot of people have the same questions but unfortunately don’t always have access to the most reliable information about henna. so i’ve compiled a set of questions that i think are most common among henna newbies. you’ll find my own answers, along with a few references to my photo-instructional henna guide, and other sites. feel free to keep asking questions here, on black queen, fotki, or by email!

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what is henna?
henna is a natural plant that acts as a great hair dye, conditioner, and temporary skin tattoo.


what color will henna dye my hair?
henna will dye the hair an orange-ish red tone, but on black hair it will only lighten the color a little bit. the color will be most visible in the sun, where it will appear brownish-orange, but overall, henna will make black hair a warmer deep brown color. (see it in action here and here.)


is henna safe?
absolutely. pure henna is harmless, as long as you aren’t allergic to the plant, which is extremely rare. however, it’s very important to do a strand test on a small piece of your hair (or a spot test on skin) in order to make sure that the product you’re using is safe. it is also very important to make sure you are buying 100% pure henna, with no added anything. some companies add other natural herbs and ingredients to change the color result, and while this is probably safe, you’re always best off with pure henna. that way, you can add whatever you choose to your mix. just be sure to check the ingredients list and make sure that the henna you’re using is pure.


where can i buy henna?
henna can be found in a lot of health food stores, but the vast majority of those products are unpure. they may or may not be safe, and most likely won’t give the best result. mehandi.com is probably the most popular site for purchasing henna. you can also check out everydayhenna.com and fromnaturewithlove.com, among other places.

{eta: i’ve just been informed that everydayhenna.com is not reliable, due the lack of any management after the site’s owner sadly passed away. please know that your order will not be fulfilled if you order from this site. thanks to jen for the vital information. she supplies henna on her henna muse site. check out other popular suppliers here and here.}

international shops (especially middle eastern and indian) are likely to have henna, but you must also be careful and make sure that the product is pure. perhaps ask the shopkeepers if they use henna, and what product they recommend. a lot of times, international brands can be the best choice, because they are simple and don’t try to fool you through imitation. however, these brands are also difficult to find and sell in america, so you may or may not find them in an international shop.
just definitely avoid health food stores, ebay, and anything labeled “black henna”.


i found a henna brand in a variety of colors. which color should i go for?
henna does not come in a variety of colors. any brand that offers henna in auburn, chestnut, blonde, brown, etc is a fraud. some brands (like lush) add natural ingredients to change the color. however, many brands add chemicals and ppd dyes that can be extremely harmful. take necessary precautions, read ingredients labels, and make sure you are comfortable with the product. like i’ve said before, opt for 100% pure and natural henna.


does the region where the henna is grown make a difference?
certain areas where henna is grown have better “tanin levels,” because of their dryer climate. these regions therefore grow henna more than areas with moist climates, and because of this, the most popular henna tends to be grown in the middle east, north/east africa, and south asia. (more information on the henna page website.)


is henna permanent?
no. henna’s color will last a very long time on the hair, but eventually, the color fades.


is henna harmful to my skin?
not at all. henna is used as a temporary skin tattoo. it is therefore important to make sure you protect your hands, face, arms, and neck when dying your hair with henna. more info here.


my friend uses “body quality art” henna for tattoos. can i use this product on my hair as well?
yes. the term “body quality art” ensures that the product is pure and sifted enough to tattoo the skin effectively and safely. this will work well for the hair, too.


what should i add to my henna powder?
the simplest henna mix can be henna powder and water, but to get the best color, an acidic liquid is necessary. lemon juice or apple cider vinegar are the best choices. my favorite mixture is henna powder, ACV, instant coffee powder, olive oil and honey. apple cider vinegar makes the color less brassy, while coffee powder makes the color more brownish. olive oil and honey moisturize the hair. a humectant, like honey, corn syrup, or glycerin, is especially important for making the mixture stick better.
all in all, your mixture should be a smooth paste. more information here.


i read somewhere that you should add boiled water to henna. is this true?
no. boiled water will actually weaken the color. use lukewarm water.


how long should i leave in my henna?

as long as you want. try to keep it in for at least 1-2 hours. also, if you plan on using it for a shorter amount of time, let the henna sit (covered with plastic wrap) for a while, so that the dye releases more.


what is the best way to wash out henna?
that depends on how important the color result is to you. since henna isn’t very noticeable on dark hair, i never shampoo my henna out. that makes it very difficult to get all of the henna out, and for the most part my hair isn’t completely clean after hennaing. a lot of people prefer to shampoo it out, but just know that shampoo/soap can weaken the color. i choose to rinse thoroughly, shake everything out in the shower, leave air-dried for a few days, and then wash with shampoo.


will henna clog my shower?
henna has never clogged my shower, or anyone else’s that i’ve known of, so i’m almost positive it won’t clog yours.


i’ve washed out my henna, and my hair feels dryer than normal. i thought that this was supposed to condition my hair?
henna does condition the hair, but it definitely does not moisturize the hair. the difference is, a moisturizing conditioner leaves hair soft, but henna leaves hair thick, dense, and healthy-looking. initially, however, it will be difficult to notice this, because henna also leaves the hair dry. the acidic liquid that you added to your mixture will probably add to the problem.
there’s a very easy solution to this. once your henna is washed out, moisturize with a heavy-duty moisturizer, like castor oil. after your hair has dried, deep condition with a hot oil treatment, and wash the oil with a gentle shampoo afterwards. (i prefer to do this a couple days after the henna has been washed out.)
also, try adding moisturizing ingredients to your henna mix, like olive oil or honey. if that doesn’t make too much of a difference, trust me, the dry feeling is temporary.


is there a way to make henna more noticeable on my black hair?
try leaving it in for longer, and make sure you have lemon juice or apple cider vinegar added to the mixture. also, if you use henna regularly (say, every few months or so), you’ll notice an overall difference in your hair’s health and color. all in all, however, henna will never drastically change black hair’s color.

be sure to check out my interactive henna tutorial on fotki. you’ll find a lot of helpful information about application techniques and such.

update on the challenge

In hair care on 07.5.08 at 6:17 pm

so my “does it really work challenge” has already started, and as promised, i have taken some pictures of the first month’s beginning length:

twist-july1

july1-stretch

i’ll also be wearing headwraps throughout the summer. these help protect my hair from the sun, and they also cover up any frizziness and messy-looking twists that i tend to wear during my protective challenges.

headwrap

{i learned how to wrap my hair from CongoBrava’s very helpful fotki album/tutorial.}

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you can check out my fotki album for the latest photo updates on this challenge.

during this month, i’ll be spritzing my hair with the following rosemary spritz:

water (most of the bottle)
vegetable glycerin (several squeezes; probably 1/3 cup)
rosemary oil (a couple tablespoons or so)
coconut oil (a few tablespoons)

along with the spritz, here are other products that i’ll be using regularly:

  • trader joe’s conditioner
  • dr. bronner’s peppermint-hemp castile soap
  • elucence moisture benefits shampoo
  • blended beauty happy nappy styles cream
  • fruit of the earth aloe vera gel

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side dish: vote for the latest bq hair feature if you haven’t already!

the “does it REALLY work?” challenge

In hair care on 06.26.08 at 7:58 pm

i was looking through some of my products that i used a while back, and i stumbled upon the daily spritz that i’ve used here and there. i forgot about it, because i didn’t really find it necessary a while back and stopped using it for the most part. it had some water, glycerin, and rosemary oil, among other things. i heard a lot about how rosemary helped promote hair growth, so i tried it out. i took a couple pictures of the progress throughout my last summer protective challenge (2007), back when i was using this spritz the most.. but i’m not convinced that the rosemary oil really made a difference. may be i didn’t take enough pictures.

whatever the case, i still have some leftover rosemary oil in my cabinet, and i’ve decided to start up a “does it really work?” challenge. it’s basically going to be the same as my summer protective challenge; i’ll be wearing twists for the majority of the summer (through the end of september). however, this time i’m going to try to see if i notice any real hair growth by comparing my protective challenge with a rosemary spritz and without one.

i’ll use the rosemary oil spritz everyday for one month (july), and then i’ll use another spritz that doesn’t contain any rosemary oil for the next month (august). i’ll compare each month’s progress with before and after pictures (the beginning of the month’s length versus the end of the month’s length), and i’ll let you all in if i feel a difference texture-wise, which spritz i liked better, or anything like that.

so basically i’m trying to see if rosemary oil really makes THAT much of a difference. anybody want to join me?